The Walkera #52 helicopter is a
very enjoyable little helicopter to fly. Definitely not a
beginners helicopter. This palm size 3D capable helicopter is
very twitchy to fly, but if you set it up correctly you will
have lots of fun.
The Walkera #52 is also a RTF kit, so you only need 8 AA
batteries for the transmitter and to charge the helicopters LiPo
battery to get it in the air. Many people will find that the
setup for the Walkera #52 is a total nightmare.
I will give you my setup settings, but keep in mind that if may
differ from helicopter to helicopter, and that my settings are
for upgraded brushless motor helicopters.
I found that the factory supplied 270 mAh LiPo battery gives you
only about 4 minutes of flight time and that the main motor is
not that powerful. That’s why I did the brushless motor upgrade.
With the brushless motor and 460 mAh LiPo battery, I get about 9
minutes of flight time.
What you need for upgrade
My choice
of brushless motor : Feigao from HiModel
Speed controller: 12A ESC from HiModel
450mAh HiModel LiPo battery
One pair of micro Dean plugs
Heat shrink sleeves for the wires that need to be soldered.
Cable ties.
How to install brushless
motor and ESC
First
remove the main rotor blades to make it easier to work on your
helicopter. Remove the skids and battery holder from the
helicopter. Pull the canopy’s carbon fiber shaft, in front of
the motor, out so that you have access to the two little screws
from the top. Unscrew them so that you be able to remove the
motor. Unplug the motor from the receiver. Unscrew the two motor
screws from the bottom. Now you would be able to remove the
brush motor. Remove the pinion gear from the brush motor (use a
pinion gear puller so that you don’t damage the pinion gear).
I’m using the same pinion gear on the Feigao brushless motor
with no hassles.
TIP:
If you didn’t get two screws with
your new Feigao brushless motor, take the brushless motor to
your nearest Optometrist and get two screws from glasses that
will screw into the motor. Take care that the screws aren’t to
long, so that they don't damage the inside of the motor when you
install the motor to the helicopter. You also need two small
washers for the motor screws. If the pinion gear doesn't fit
tight on the shaft of the Feigao motor, use locktite, but make
sure that the pinion gear will mesh correctly with the main gear
of the helicopter before locktite is applied. So far my pinion
gear that I have fixed in position with locktite hasn't gave me
any problems.
You will find that you need to file the hole in the aluminum
plate of the motor mount a bit larger so that the brushless
motor can fit perfectly. Fit the motor so that the pinion
gear doesn’t mesh to tight with the main gear. Don’t forget the
washers when fitting the motor.
Now that the motor is fitted, you can screw the canopy carbon
fiber rod mount back on. You can also screw the skids back on,
but leave the battery holder because you are not going to use it
anymore.
Lets do the electrical
part
If you look
at your receiver you will find that the wires that connects to
the battery are white and pink. Cut the plug off with a cutter
and solder the micro Dean plug onto the receiver. Don’t forget
the heat shrink sleeves to prevent a shortcut. The white wire is
the negative and the pink wire is the positive. Now you can
solder the Dean plug onto the Kokam LiPo battery. Don’t forget
the heat shrink sleeves and make sure that the polarities of the
wires are correct. White on white, and pink on red.
Take the
old brush motor and desolder the red and black wires, because
you are going to need the plug. When that is done, you can move
to the speed controller.
If you look at the speed controller, you will see two wires (
red and black ). Solder the plug that you have removed from the
old brush motor to these two wires. Again, don’t forget the heat
shrink sleeves and make sure that the polarities of the wires
are correct. This plug will be plugged into the receivers motor
port.
Now you can
connect the signal wire (orange, red and brown ) plug of the
speed controller into the receivers throttle port. Make sure
that the brown wire is closest to the motor. This will be the
correct way for the plug.
To connect the three yellow wires of the speed controller to the
Feigao motor, you must firstly make sure that the direction of
the motor is correct. Connect the three yellow speed controller
wires with the three black wires of the Feigao motor by hand.
Make sure that they will not short. Switch on the transmitter
and make sure that the throttle is in the closed position.
Connect the Kokam LiPo battery to the receiver. Give the speed
controller chance to finish with its beeps, and then advance the
throttle forward. The motor will start turning. If the direction
is wrong, switch only two of the wires around. Unplug the
battery from the receiver. Now that the direction is sorted out,
you can start soldering the wires. Again, don’t forget the heat
shrink sleeves.
Take some double sided tape and tape the speed controller to the
top of the receiver. Now you can neatly bind all the wires
together over the receiver with one cable tie. Put the main
rotor blades back on.
Congratulations, you have just upgraded you Walkera #52 with the
brushless motor conversion.
Setup off the
transmitter
By now you must have noticed
that the Walkera #52 transmitter is quite confusing to setup.
I’m going to give you my settings that I’m flying my Walkera #52
on. Keep in mind that the settings are for the helicopters with
the brushless conversion.
You can try
these settings on the standard Walkera #52, but I’m not sure how
it’s going to fly. Keep the DIP switches on the back of the
transmitter the same as the Factory Default Settings. The only
switches that you will change are the No.10, No.11 and No.12 DIP
switch, and that will only be with the programming of the
transmitter.
You will
notice that the V1 and V2 knobs on the front of the transmitter
can be turned negative or positive from zero in 20 % intervals.
For the setup, the transmitter must be set in the normal mode,
and the throttle in the closed position.
Lets start the
programming
No.10 DIP
Turn the transmitter ON.
Connect the battery to the helicopter.
Wait for the ESC to complete all the beeps.
Turn the transmitter around and switch the No.10 DIP switch to
the ON position.
Adjust the V2 knob to - 60%.
Adjust the V1 knob to + 60%.
Turn the transmitter around and switch the No.10 DIP switch to
the OFF position.
No.11 DIP
Turn the No.11 DIP switch to
the ON position.
Adjust the V2 knob to + 80%.
Adjust the V1 knob to 0 %.
Turn the No.11 DIP switch to the OFF position.
No.12 DIP
Turn the No.12 DIP switch to
the ON position.
Adjust the V2 knob to + 50%.
Adjust the V1 knob to - 10 %.
Keep the No.12 DIP in the ON position.
Unplug the helicopters battery and turn the transmitter Off.
The programming is complete.
By now you are wondering why
the No.12 DIP must be kept in the ON position. I have found that
the transmitter doesn’t keep the rudder trim setting after I
have done the brushless conversion. The way to overcome this is
by leaving the No.12 DIP switch in the ON position.
You have to follow the following sequence to have a nice flight
with the Walkera #52, otherwise you will have to give lots of
right rudder during flight.
With the transmitter in the OFF position, put the rudder trim
full left. Turn the transmitter ON. Connect the battery to the
helicopter. While the ESC is busy beeping, move the rudder trim
to the neutral position. Now the helicopter is ready to fly.
Unfortunately you have to go through this sequence for every new
flight.
If anyone knows of a way for
the transmitter to keep the rudder trim setting, please e-mail
me your solution.
Setup for the helicopter
I found that the main rotor
blades must be quite tight for a nice smooth flight. Make sure
that the centre of gravity is correct. My Walkera #52 was a bit
tail heavy, so I had to glue some weight to the inside of the
canopies nose. Use Velcro to attached the battery to the
helicopter. Check that the blade tracking is correct.
My reason to buy the
Walkera #52
The Walkera #52 is a nice
indoor and outdoor helicopter in light winds.
It is 3D capable, but also nice to fly in the normal mode.
With the brushless motor upgrade, the Walkera #52 got lots of
power.
The parts are easily obtainable and available.
The Walkera #52 is quite crash resistant although it looks a bit
flimsy.
Transition into forward flight is really good.
If you are looking for a really small helicopter, this one is
for you…
Here I'm flying my Walkera #52 after I did
the brushless motor conversion. I haven't tried any 3D maneuvers
yet, but a friend of mine has looped and rolled his Walkera #52.
We did the brushless conversions at the same time.
The Walkera #52 is really a
small little helicopter. I have painted my canopy white and
black, and also added a vertical and horizontal stabilizer. I
think it's more for the look than any aerodynamic effect.
This is the HiModel 11.1 V
(450mAh) LiPo battery that I use. I have used many different
brands of LiPo's, and I find that HiModel's LiPo battery
to be of high quality.
My Walkera #52 fly like a dream with
the HiModel 460mAh / 11.1V 15C Li-poly Battery Pack
w/Balancer and a 12A HiModel Brushless ESC. Absolutely
worth while to do a brushless upgrade.